Monday, we continued to our destination: the Sedlec ossuary, or “bone church”, near Kutna Hora, about an hour east of Prague. It was fortunately not crowded. This changes, minute to minute, depending on the arrival of tour buses. The ossuary will hold about one tour bus. We’ve seen a lot of bones this trip, from the human bone/glass construction in Venice, to the reindeer skulls in Kassel, to the Sedlec chapel here. The memento mori are piling up. I have been here before, with Klaus and his family in 2013, but Dave hasn’t, and one really ought to have World Heritage Site Parity in a relationship. Except, the bone church isn’t part of the Kutna Hora UNESCO properties. It’s too comprehensible. Two other large churches in town are Inscribed, and documented with absolutely opaque church architecture jargon.
But what you do notice, as a lay person, is that the cathedrals of St. Barbara and especially of St. John the Baptist, are sunny and bright inside. I think this is because they aren’t so heavily ornamented with dark and history-laden stones.
At night, we decided further to accept no small slips, and gave up going to Prague entirely. We stayed at a charming little hotel, U Ruze, where we had had lunch. This is how marketing should work: they neglected to charge 10 Czech kroner for the use of their bathroom, which led us to reward them by having lunch there, and as the sun grew low, we needed look no farther for a hotel. The room was quite cute and comfortable.